Photographs

Field Report - Pagami #4

Years Two and Three - Post-Fire (2013 and 2014)
The Story of Plants, Part 1

The plants and rock outcrops are now as familiar and individual to me as family and friends and I'd like to introduce them to you. This post highlights plants I observed immediately after the fire. I'm indebted to Dr. Lee Frelich, forest ecologist at the University of Minnesota, and Lawson and Lynden Gerdes, retired ecologists with the Minnesota Biological Survey, for their insights and explanations.

What kind of landscape would replace the one just burned? According to Lawson Gerdes, the landscape before the fire was likely an FDn32 (Fire-Dependent Forest/Woodland System Northern Poor Dry-Mesic Mixed Woodland). The Field Guide to the Native Plant Communities of Minnesota, The Laurentian Mixed Forest Province says FDn32 includes pine and black spruce woodlands with paper birch and quaking aspen growing on the nutrient-poor shallow soils over the bedrock outcrops. Shrubs such as juneberries (Amelanchier spp.), low-bush blueberry (Vaccinium augustifolium) and bush honeysuckle (Diervilla lonicera) would be prevalent.

Historic fire maps show that the last severe fire in the area was over 100 years ago, so this would've been a mature woodland. As the average rotation of catastrophic and severe surface fires is estimated to be 100 years, the forest was ready for replacement.

I  employed the Field Guide and a plant list generated by Gerdes with forbs and grasses to clue me in.

Big Pine Shorty, National Forest Lodge

Visiting the fire area, I often stayed nearby at National Forest Lodge in Isabella, Minnesota in a cabin affectionately known as Big Pines Shorty. The kitchen table was my work station for online plants research and verification before and after heading into the field. Fortunately, there was good cell phone reception!

Big Pines Shorty workstation, July 2014

In May 2012, less that six months after the fire, Lawson Gerdes led me to the fire area location on Island River recommended by Dr. Frelich. Bryophytes (mosses and liverworts) were the first colonizers carpeting the bare ground, thriving on the burst of available nitrogen. They have fabulous forms, shapes and textures. By fall of that first year post-fire, grasses and sedges sprouted and pink Fireweed (Epilobium augustifolium) bloomed among the bryophytes.

Site #2b during my second visit, September 2012. Fleshy bryophytes carpet the ground

The following two years marked the greatest change in the landscape.

Field Notebook, September 12, 2013
The day is moody with crystalline blue sky punctuated by linear, fluffy clouds stacked to the horizon, alternating with dull, somber gray masses that block out the sun.

Pagami Fire Area from Island River Bridge, 2013

After two growing seasons, the landscape is evolving. I can’t say it’s recovering; but rather it’s changing in profound ways. As the burned trees collapse or blow over, the soil is disturbed and a great network of potholes has formed. With the prevalent rains, the hillsides erode and are sliding down into Island River. A large, wide bench of spongy moss and bryophytes (mosses and liverworts) are forming at the edge of Island River on the soil washed down the hillside. This edge is rich with sprouting sedges, cattail, bulrushes, irises and shrubs and quite visually arresting.

This edge is a transition zone – but not especially interesting to ecologists – it is not a clear enough example of one forest type or another. It is a mixed blend of plants that may have resulted from seed material blowing in; or having been released from the existing seed bed; or carried down the hillside; floated in; deposited by birds or animals; or suckered from existing trees or shrubs. Too many variables are causing this landscape to form and re-form.

On the uplands, a webby net of sprawling Fallopia vines, now reddish after a frost, covers the downed trees, boulders and bare soil. Walking is treacherous; the vines catch on my boots, tripping me. They obscure the potholes and downed limbs. Other plants, shrubs and tree seedlings are having a difficult time competing with this vine. I wonder how prevalent Fallopia is in the burn zone and whether it’s an invasive that will inhibit other plants.

Site #2a on south-facing hillside. Fallopia vine spreads its net over the landscape

With these changes, some of the compositions at several sites have disappeared as trees fall down and vegetation, including the disgusting vine takes over. The quality of the vegetation is mixed. Fireweed, Jack pine seedlings, Bush honeysuckle and other shrubs, grassy plants, and in some cases ferns struggle to compete with the vines. What this landscape will become is difficult to perceive. A messy sorting process is going on.

Houghton's sedge (Carex houghtoniana) was found at both Sites #2a and #2b, a south-facing upland slope; but was common throughout the Island River burn area. I carried dog-eared pictures of my locations and they came in handy for connecting plants with their settings.

Field Notebook, June 7, 2014
Light rain was falling when I awoke, but the sky cleared around 10:30 am and I headed for my sites in the fire zone. The light is delicate and diffuse after the rain and the plants appear luscious; raindrops still cling to the fireweed. I work mostly with color film, using the Hasselblad with the wide-angle lens close to the ground on a short tripod. Later in the afternoon, around 4:30 pm, I switch to the 4x5 field camera and use the wide-angle lens.

I find the hillside blanketed with

Trees and Shrubs –
Populus tremuloides, Trembling aspen
Pinus strobus, White pine
Pinus banksiana, Jack pine
Picea glauca, White spruce
Picea mariana, Black spruce
Diervilla lonicera, Bush honeysuckle
Cornus rugosa, Round-leaved dogwood

Plants –
Bryophytes including Funaria grometrica, Lungwort
Epilobium augustifolium, Fireweed
Carex houghtoniana, Houghton’s sedge
Fragaria virginiana, Common strawberry
Rosa spp.
Aster macrophyllus (or Eurybia maculata?), Large-leaved aster
Geranium bicknelli, Bicknell’s cranesbill
Fern spp. on southwest-facing slopes
Rubus strigosus, Red raspberry
Vaccinium augustifolium, Lowbush blueberry
Corylus americana, Hazelnut
Cornus canadensis, Bunchberry
Aralia nudicans, Wild sasparilla
Viola spp.

Site #2b during June 2014 visit. Bryophytes, Willow (Salix spp.), Fireweed (Epilobium augustifolium), Red raspberry (Rubus var. strigosus), Large-leaved aster (Aster macrophyllus) and two-foot-tall Black spruce (Picea mariana)

Is the landscape becoming what it was – FDn32 – or becoming something else? The first colonizers were the bryophytes (mosses and lungworts) and they still form an under-layer, beneath the fireweed and other plants. At this point, the ground layer is dominant and shrubs and sedges are coming on strong. Scattered tree seedlings of White pine, Jack pine, and White and Black spruce are about two-feet tall.

To be continued...

 

 

Field Report - Pagami #3

So what is it like to photograph in the Pagami Fire Area? This post from a notebook that I began keeping in 2013 describes the physical, photographic and aesthetic challenges involved in documenting the fire area.

Year-Two Post Fire
Third Visit: May 22-24, 2013

Written Friday, May 24, 2013

I am sitting at a window with a view of Lake Superior, at Bob’s Cabins #3, Two Harbors, Minnesota. I stopped here last evening, bone-tired and beat up from my day photographing in the fire area and was fortunate to find an available cabin – turns out it’s one of my favorites!

BobsCabinsLkSuperior_5-2013

This photography foray was particularly challenging. I will look back at the past week and find that I’ve turned a corner. Adversity has that effect…

I was invited by ecologists who live and conduct biological surveys in Northern Minnesota to bunk in their sauna building during my visit. I planned to participate in a relevé [in ecology: analysis of a small plot of vegetation, usually 20 meters square, as a sample of a wider area] led by one of them in the burn area and including two local citizen-scientists and two researchers from the University of Iowa. The fieldwork will take two days and then I will spend at least one day photographing my sites in the burn area.

Lawson_releve_group_5-2013

Here’s the adversity/challenging part of my trip… Day One (Tuesday) was spent in the field; it poured steady but benevolent rain all day. I was not able to photograph except with my digital camera, which got a little wet. But I wore waterproof layers and was cozy and relatively dry and enjoyed being in the elements.

Day Two (Wednesday) dawned sunny with intermittent clouds and was to be spent in the field and feature a short canoe-paddle to an intact area at the edge of the fire area at Island River. But plans were scrapped because the car belonging to the researchers from Iowa had a flat tire which meant a very late start; too late. So the ecologist and I spent the afternoon examining plant communities (on land) in the vicinity – an intact Fdn-32 (Fire-Dependent Forest 32 plant community), a bog and various budding willows along a forest road that followed an old railroad grade.

Day Three (Thursday) broke with a stunning orange sunrise viewed from my sleeping bag on the platform bed in the sauna. This was my day for photographing in the burn – I had one day to complete two day’s worth of photography! My intention was to photograph until 5 pm or so and then head back to the Twin Cities. It’s 22 miles down Tomahawk Road to the site and then six hours driving back home. Well, I made it as far as Bob’s Cabins…

The day was fraught with perils. I can see that the fire area will become more and more difficult to navigate, over time. The unstable and eroding soils and decaying downed trees will make the terrain full of booby traps. I got pretty banged up (tripped on a hidden limb and pitched forward onto a rock which resulted in a gouged knee and thumping my 4x5 camera on its back plate – fortunately the ground-glass was intact). Later I slid down an embankment after the muddy soil gave way and landed hard. The third mishap had occurred earlier while I was photographing in the Poor Conifer Swamp. I almost lost my one of my tall rubber boots in a sinkhole. The vegetation is recovering nicely, but decaying roots disguise the sinkholes. I stepped on a rock and my right foot slid sideways and I went in up to my knee. Fortunately, the boot was not over-topped – I had to pull my foot out of the boot and then take both hands and tug with all my might to free it. From that mishap, I merely got a bit muddy; no damage to my body or photo gear.

Burned Poor Conifer Swamp with Sweet Coltsfoot blooms

Sweet Coltsfoot blooming in Poor Conifer Swamp

As the day went on, I continued to struggle with the terrain and my gear and actually finding enough concentration and openness to make good images; they did not come into my camera easily. Walking into these environments (the burned and recovering bog, and the forest), it’s difficult to discern the framing of the subject that will tell the story. I understand how my cameras and their different formats/lenses can render a fragment of the landscape. But the challenge is to balance what are good composition and an evocative picture with what will actually convey content and the meaning of the landscape on an ecological level.

While waiting for the light to be right during one of my 4x5 setups, I made a series of movies with my digital camera, panning through the landscape that includes my still images. (This effect is conceptually similar – ironically – to the videos that I did for my Masters of Arts exhibition at the University of Wisconsin-Madison in the 1970s.)

Fireweed sprouts among a carpet of Bryophytes

Observations –

What are we seeing when we look at landscapes and landscape photographs? I visit sites because I want to see what happens… Looking to invest the landscape (through photography) as a subject with new meanings, that is more true to the subject and its truth and functions, than to our human, psychological need (that is hard-wired? trained?) to see landscape as a surface (onto which we project our psychological states) – as beauty – or object.

Empathy. Trying to capture/reveal the landscape on its own terms – as it is. My choice of landscapes is not driven by aesthetics – but there must be something inherently visually interesting about a place. My choice of places is largely intuitive with a sense of a landscape in transition, through ongoing change or outright destruction. This is larger than (personal) metaphor. That is, a desire for ongoing change, stimulation, transition, growth.

Today (Friday) is my gift to myself… to stay here at Bob’s Cabins facing Lake Superior and return leisurely – to transition – back to the Twin Cities. This is my vacation week, after all!